The environment

Recycling here works like this: a woman comes around with a wheelbarrow to collect what you have so she can turn around and sell it to factories for their operations. Like all the street peddlers, she announces herself with a unique call. The peddlers' calls form a kind of street music, and when there are several working close by, like early in the mornings and between 2 p.m. and 7 p.m., the calls become especially melodic. (The roving masseuse, though, comes after dark and roams the streets until about 11 p.m., rubbing what sounds like cymbals together -- which are actually beer bottle caps on strings tied to his bicycle wheels.)

This woman does this work to supplement her and her husband's income as farmers. They're raising two young children.

Going native: And this is what I wear to combat the city's pollution when I ride on the back of a motorbike. I also optimistically wear this mask, despite it being completely ineffective according to local doctors, when I ride my bicycle. Plus sunglasses. It's the mosquito look. (For the full mosquito effect, check out Lena below!)